June 2026. Yereven. At ten to nine, the whole city of Yerevan seemed to descend on Republic Square. And bang on nine, the singing fountains outside the national museums and Government buildings came to life. Press PLAY to try to identify the classical piece being played. Quite a cultured lot, the Armenians; the...

June 2026. Yerevan. Armenia. After three years of delving ever further into eastern Europe and onto the Caucasus, you learn not to have too many preconceptions about countries you only know from Eurovision and the preliminary rounds of the Conference League. Behind our “Boutique” hotel, a small hut sells fresh fruit...

June 2026. Yereven. This is Mrs RM’s tick list for essential sites in the Armenian capital, denoted by camels. Reader, I saw zero camels in Armenia. These mini-posts are mainly to jog Mrs RM’s memory of an epic Yerevan mop-up day last Sunday, though if I do get some Armenian views I’ll be delighted, as it’s a...

June 2026. Yerevan. Armenia. Breakfast at our “Boutique” hotel was certainly colourful; it was the only free breakfast we managed that week, with no food till 9am and those early tour starts. Tucked just outside the ring road, next to international embassies and the Soviet chess club (look closely), it wasn’t...

June 2026. Yerevan. Armenia. Just the hour late, our tour bus returned to its slot opposite the Yerevan Opera House just past 7, and we turned down tickets for Sleeping Beauty just to bring you reports on the craft bar scene. We’ve found clusters of “authentic” craft beer bars all over eastern Europe and into the...

June 2026. Armenia. Back in bed from the Southern Armenia 16 hour slog, a 6am alarm on Saturday morning for another early tour was as welcome as a Maidenhead micro closure. But this northern exploration, centred on the lakes and forests, was an essential part of understanding a country that had seemed a little...

June 2026. Armenia. I’ll be honest, by the 5th day of our Armenia trip last week I was knackered. Or specifically, my legs were. Sunday afternoon – 4 hours drive down to Waterbeach then Luton Airport. Monday – 5 hours in window seat on Wizz plane to Yerevan Tuesday – 3+ hours on packed train to Gyumri Thursday – 3+...

June 2026. Yerevan. A second night in Gyumri, exploring a Soviet amusement park, but deciding against the wheel, before heading back to the wonderful station on Thursday morning. I don’t think it actually sells tickets or anything, but it looks the part. Three hours later we’re back in Yerevan, bags dumped back in...

June 2026. Armenia. Churches, beer, statues, mountains, lakes. But what about Armenian food ? Well, there’s no obvious Chinese takeaway scene, but loads of pastries, and particularly good salads, notably at the smart Yaghli family diner on Rijkov Street, Gyumri’s main pedestrianised dining street (500 dram to the...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Pubs, art, weird food, churches….what else is there ? Armenia certainly has the churches, and a fair few folk (FFF) have questioned whether what there is to do if you don’t like touring monasteries. Gyumri’s classic is the rebuilt St. All Saviours, the orange and black exterior dominating...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Too hot to blog last night, a week ago in northern Armenia it was too hot to go trudging round back streets and scrubland in 33 degrees, but I always accept a challenge from my mate ChatGPT. “Given your track record, I wouldn’t be surprised if by Thursday you’re telling me where the best...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. As so often, the demographic chart for Gyumri tells you quite a lot. A five-fold increase in 60 years, followed by a halving of the population after natural disaster and the demise of the Soviet empire in short order. One full day and night in Armenia’s second city is probably enough to...